Known by Wilmington locals as the heart and soul of Market Street, Caprice Bistro has been a charming locale for dining on any occasion since it’s opening in 2001. After ownership changed earlier this year to Edie Senter and Dustin Cook, we’re sharing what it’s like to dine at the “new” Caprice Bistro.
Welcome to Caprice Bistro
Depending on your last visit, Caprice Bistro might have undergone small changes to withstand the test of time. Rest assured, it has done so successfully. Edie and Dustin have been intentional in preserving this treasure. Caprice is still one of our easiest recommendations for downtown dining.
As our friend John Burke put it, “The couch bar of what I’ll generously describe as my misspent youth has given way to additional table seating. Another new table rests at the end of the bar. Changes which make the downtown staple feel familiar and foreign all at once.”
When Edie and Dustin took the helm, they wanted to honor the beloved bistro’s legacy in town and continue moving forward. With small, tasteful renovations to the upstairs, as well as adding new furniture, fixtures, and paintings, the traditional atmosphere is as lively as ever.
Dustin reassured us that the plan had always been to “keep things as they are.” Which is to say, to preserve the establishment they themselves had been frequenting for more than twenty years.
The First Course:
If you’ve never visted, let’s lay the foundation for a delicious time. Your evening at Caprice begins with a drink (or two). Dirty martinis, oaky wines, and aged whiskeys await. Browse the menu, and find the perfect starters for the night. Charcuterie comprised of fresh cured meats, manchego, and crispy bread. Tender, garlicky escargot in a creamy sauce that’s good enough to drink. Caesar-dressed greens topped with fat, tender shrimp.
The service industry runs deep through both Edie and Dustin. They met in New York City, where Edie worked for the well-known Union Square Cafe, and would continue to employ her expertise in prominent locales across the country. Dustin, meanwhile, had grown up in a family known for hosting, with a brother who attended culinary school to become a Chef.
Dustin’s experience as a barista, server, host, and maître d’ at high-end establishments along the coast, coupled with his wife’s industry genius, meant that after moving to Wilmington in 2007, they were immediately attracted to the town’s finest eateries.
Because of this, Edie and Dustin knew Caprice’s original owners (the Moity’s) well. It made their decision to buy Caprice an easy one.
The Main Course:
Dinner at Caprice unfolds timelessly. Rich flavors, strong community, and elegance that begs for more.
“…serendipity led us to Caprice on a Tuesday, when they still maintain their longtime special: Coq au Vin. Slow-cooked chicken thighs in wine is a tradition dating back to ancient Rome, and it might have taken those millennia for Caprice to perfect it. Decadent without being filling, their Coq au Vin blends the rich, fattier cut of chicken with wine and spices to create a balanced dish that had me reaching for dipping bread more times than I’m proud to admit,” says John.
Deeply satisfying, savory dishes populate their daily menu. Crispy duck leg, juicy center-cut pork chop, bone-in lamb shank, flaky trout. Their menu is divinely populated by French bistro basics, elevated with that special touch that comes from time-honored attention to craft.
Those who dine at Caprice know to expect incredible things, from intuitive service to well-executed flavor. Each detail is thoughtful, inviting, and enchanting. A new Chef, who expertly follows the old recipes and experiments regularly with new ones, delivers dishes to savor (and devour).
The Dessert:
By now, you might be satisfied…but far from being ready to stop. That’s because dessert at Caprice is something to behold. Rotating crème brûlée with tasty twists and classic creaminess. The Floating Island, a coconut meringue surrounded by passionfruit sauce. They have a perfect bite of something sweet to draw the night’s end.
Dustin said that Caprice is an experience—one that transports its guests. Stepping into these walls, it’s hard to believe you are still in ILM. One could easily be in a quaint Paris bistro, or a rustic yet intimate New York City brasserie.
The Nightcap:
From John: “You don’t need a reason to visit Caprice beyond thirst or hunger, but if you have a birthday, an event downtown, or an out-of-town guest you’d like to impress, then this should be near the top of your list. Caprice feels both classic and fresh, making it a rare treat.”
Find Edie Senter and Dustin Cook at the helm of Caprice, one of our long-time favorites in the ILM community. To say it will be an evening well spent might be the understatement of the century.
Looking for more divine dining? Check out our blog for the latest recommendations.
Full Review by John Burke:
I hadn’t set foot in Caprice in more years than I remember, so the small changes seemed jarring to me. The couch bar of what I’ll generously describe as my misspent youth has given way to additional table seating. Another new table rests at the end of the bar. Changes which make the downtown staple feel familiar and foreign all at once.
But all things must evolve or perish and Caprice still thrives after 24 years. It’s still the cozy Market Street Bistro, albeit with new owners, some changes to the layout, and a streamlined menu.
Craft martinis have always been a draw at the bar and that felt like running into an old friend. Marie Antoinette’s Left is an old favorite. Named for the apocryphal claim that the champagne flat gets its shape from a mold of the late queen’s left breast, it’s a sweet and smooth blend of vanilla, almond, strawberry, and pineapple which starts the night on just the right note.
Caprice can be anything you want it to be. A cocktail before dinner elsewhere. A quick bite before or after the theater. A casual night out. A fine dining experience for a special occasion. Caprice molds itself to the diner’s needs, making it one of the easiest recommendations in Wilmington.
My companion and I were in it for the experience, so we carved out a few hours and after a couple of drinks ordered a charcuterie plate and the grilled Caesar salad. The selection of meats, coupled with a generous slice of manchego is the perfect complement to the crusty bread Caprice has always offered. But the Caesar, with a light garlicky dressing and a few well seasoned shrimp shouldn’t be missed. My friend went back two nights later for another one. Â
The Pork Chop Forestiere is an earthy mix of mushrooms and pork over a thick buttery serving of mashed potatoes. Somehow it serves as elegant comfort food. But as much as I enjoyed it, serendipity led us to Caprice on a Tuesday, when they still maintain their longtime special: Coq au Vin. Slow cooked chicken thighs in wine is a tradition dating back to ancient Rome and it might have taken those millenia for Caprice to perfect it. Decadent without being filling, their Coq au Vin blends the rich, fattier cut of chicken with wine and spices to create a balanced dish which had me reaching for dipping bread more times than I’m proud to admit.
Our hunger was more than slated by the time the entrees cleared, but I was in no mood to quit. After consultation with a delightful bartender, we ordered the Creme Brulee and something called a Floating Island. The Creme Brulee rotates, and I feel lucky to have tried the orange version (the fruit, not the color). The acidity of the citrus cuts the heaviness from the cream. The dessert maintains that classic mouthfeel while giving a surprising twist on the taste.
The Floating Island, a coconut meringue in a passionfruit sauce, took some convincing as I normally eschew coconut. But the bartender knew her business, and the light meringue took on the sweet/tart flavor of the sauce in a way I adored. I thought I’d take a bite and leave the rest for my companion. There’s no doubt that I took more than half of the Floating Island for myself.
You don’t need a reason to visit Caprice beyond thirst or hunger, but if you have a birthday, an event downtown, or an out of town guest you’d like to impress then this should be near the top of your list. Caprice feels both classic and fresh, making it a rare treat.
